Paris and its environs are complicated territories. If you've ever wondered what lies behind the borders of Parisian beauty and where locals often choose to spend their weekends, look no further than the stunning castles that dot the region. Why confine yourself to the heart of Paris when there's an alternative path to French culture? Exploring the energy between departments in the Île-de-France region provides a unique standpoint through which to delve deeper into the spirit of France.
Photo: Château de Chantilly
To grasp the essence of the Île-de-France region, let's rewind to a time when Paris wasn't the massive city it is now, crammed with over 10 million people and their suburban extensions. Back then, the action wasn't only centred in a complex megalopolis, but in the peaceful Parisian countryside, where castles stood as getaways for barons and royalty dodging the chaos of the capital. These castles weren't just architectural feats; they were havens of calm and witnesses to history. They hosted extravagant feasts, political schemes, and romantic affairs, providing a retreat from the vibrant city life. As we dig into rediscovering their appeal, we're not just unearthing historical facts but peeling back the layers of the Île-de-France's past and tracing how Paris morphed from a laid-back scene to the bustling metropolis we know today. So, let's take a stroll through time and explore the stories embedded in these castles, uncovering the fascinating chapters of French history they hold.
Château d’Écouen
Whether you opt to venture 20 km north of Paris, you'll find yourself traversing a varied terrain marked by notable distinctions. In the pursuit of uncovering castles, your journey will lead you to the Val d'Oise region, where the Château d’Écouen awaits. While it may not boast the same level of renown as others in the area, this castle conceals a trove of hidden gems waiting to be discovered. Standing at the edge of the Chantilly Forest, it serves nowadays as an exceptional Renaissance National Museum, once owned by the noble Anne de Montmorency, who served diligently under the reigns of French kings François I and Henri II. Anne de Montmorency was not merely an ambitious and successful man but also a significant patron of the arts, fueled by his passion.
Constructed in the 15th century, the castle was meticulously crafted by esteemed French artisans and professionals who were also associated with another noteworthy project—the royal construction site of Fontainebleau. The castle itself is adorned with pavements, stained glass windows, paneling, friezes, and painted landscapes, as well as marbles and cast iron. The decorative arts continue in splendid fashion, showcasing the vibrant enamels of Léonard Limosin, pottery from Saint-Porchaire, Italian majolica, plentiful tapestries, paintings by artists like Rosso, rare books, and remarkably skillful pieces of goldsmithery. Together, these elements culminate in an ambiance of exceptional luxury, truly making it a fitting haven for Henri II.
If your interest lies in the architectural style of the French Renaissance and you've developed a specific fascination with the aesthetics of the 15th century, then Château d’Écouen is the ideal destination for your further exploration.
Château de Chantilly
As we continue our exploration of these castle secrets, a magnificent revelation awaits on the opposite side of the Chantilly forest—the Château de Chantilly, an outstanding gem in France's cultural legacy. Crafted by Henri d’Orléans, Duke of Aumale, son of the last King of France, Louis-Philippe, this castle stands as a testament to extraordinary destinies.
Henri d’Orléans, renowned as the greatest collector of his era, transformed Chantilly into a showcase for his vast collection of masterpieces and precious manuscripts. Remarkably preserved, the Château remains as it was when the Duke of Aumale generously bestowed it upon the Institut de France in 1886. Step into this timeless princely residence and take a captivating journey back in time.
In homage to his esteemed predecessors, the Princes of Condé, the Duke of Aumale christened the series of rooms housing his collection the “Condé Museum.” These art galleries, meticulously designed by the Duke, feature the second-largest collection of antique paintings in France, rivaling even the Louvre Museum. Maintaining the layout unchanged since the 19th century, visitors are granted a unique opportunity to traverse the past and experience the typical museography of that era.
On the Château's 1st floor, the grand suites, once reception rooms for the Princes of Bourbon-Condé, offer a splendid showcase of ceremonial decors from the 18th century. A rich array of decorative arts, furniture, and Old Master paintings grace these areas, reconstructing the grandeur and opulence of the time of the Princes of Condé, a vision meticulously curated by the Duke of Aumale. Venture to the ground floor of the Petit Château, and you'll encounter the private suites of the Duke and Duchess of Aumale. Decorated in 1845-1847 by Romantic painter and decorator Eugène Lami, these intimate living quarters provide an intact glimpse into the personal life of the Duke and Duchess, accessible only through guided tours for small groups.
Among Chantilly's treasures is one of France's most extensive libraries, enriched passionately by the Duke of Aumale, the greatest bibliophile of his time. The reading room, designed by architect Honoré Daumet in the late 19th century, proudly displays the manuscripts of the Princes of Condé and the Duke of Aumale’s literary treasures—an awe-inspiring testament to the enduring legacy of Chantilly.
Château de Pierrefonds
Continuing our journey near Compiègne, a marvel awaits – the fortified castle of Pierrefonds. Originally dismantled in the 17th century, this architectural gem was reborn in the 19th century through the visionary touch of the architect Viollet-le-Duc. Witness an extraordinary reinterpretation of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance, where the chapel, the court of honour, and the cellars will undoubtedly leave you speechless.
The roots of the castle trace back to 1397 when Louis d'Orléans, son of King Charles V and younger brother of Charles VI, undertook its construction in less than a decade. Acquiring these Valois lands as an apanage, he strategically fortified the region to defend Paris from Burgundian and English invasions, prevalent during the Hundred Years War. Louis d'Orléans's ability to build not only Pierrefonds but also other strongholds like the castles of Coucy and La Ferté-Milon, was made possible by the dowry brought by his wife, Valentine Visconti, during their union.
Pierrefonds stands as one of the most splendid testaments to military architecture from the end of the Middle Ages. In 1855, Emperor Napoleon III, captivated by modern technologies, spearheaded the Universal Exhibition of Paris. The success of this exhibition, drawing over 5 million visitors, led Napoleon III to transform Pierrefonds from romantic ruins into an Imperial residence, becoming a symbol of France's radiance, industrial prowess, and artistic know-how. To achieve this transformation, Napoleon III sought the counsel of Prosper Mérimée and entrusted Eugène Viollet-le-Duc with the restoration of Louis d'Orléans's fortress, turning it into a symbol of the Second Empire. Over three decades, the restoration, led by Lucyan Wyganowski under Viollet-le-Duc's guidance, turned the castle into a masterpiece.
The Room of the Preuses, an emblematic space within Pierrefonds, stands as the pinnacle of this monumental achievement. Its dimensions, decoration, and the unique vault resembling an overturned ship's hull make it appear more like a grand ballroom than just a room, further enhancing the allure of this remarkable castle.
Ready to explore these incredible castles in person? Check out ticket options now and plan your visit to Château de Chantilly, and the fortified marvel, Pierrefonds. Don't miss the chance to witness history, art, and architectural wonders up close. Secure your tickets today and embark on an unforgettable journey into the heart of French heritage!